Wes Hagen finishes up the 2014 harvest at Clos Pepe and gives you the inside information on how this vintage will be remembered. What's the 'miracle' that saved the vintage?
Click play and know within three minutes!
And as always, drink an extra glass of wine every day at table with the people you love!
--Wes Hagen, 9/29/2014
Wes takes you on a trip through history to explain, in 4 minutes or less, why wine has always been the most important fermented beverage on the planet.
Don't forget to read Dr. Patrick McGovern's masterworks: "Uncorking the Past" and "Ancient Wine", or for an easier read, Tom Standage's "History of the World in 6 Glasses".
And leave me questions, messages or suggestions for subject matter for subsequent vlogs!
2-5% of wines under natural cork are returned at competition as being TCA-infected. Most judges hit a TCA infection between 3-10 parts per trillion. Most corked wine (3-5%) would have 5 ppt TCA infection.
" In a 2005 study of 2800 bottles tasted at the Wine Spectator blind-tasting facilities in Napa, California, 7% of the bottles were found to be tainted." Let's assume the TCA taint rate of those 7% were 3-4 ppt.
.5 ppt TCA can change a wine, mute its nose and change the mouth feel. Now if you read the literature, especially that funded by cork companies, they will stress that most consumers can't tell a wine is corked under 3-4 ppt.
What they don't say is that even slight TCA infections (>.5 ppt in my 20 year pro wine and judging experience) DO CHANGE a wine's aroma, bouquet, mouthfeel and finish.
So if 7% of wines are corked to where almost anyone can tell, (5ppt), we can assume a ten times higher incidence of .5 ppt taint, which could be as high as (gulp!) 70%. I believe the 25%-40% rate I mention is a very low and conservative number.
I might even go so far as to say that MOST wines under natural cork are somehow influenced negatively by TCA. But I'll wait to get some more data from ETS to go on the record on that one.
Regardless, I think we can agree that there is no reason in the world for any cautious, sane winemaker to close a bottle of wine with natural cork.
What I sent to our producers:
This section is usually 1-2 brix behind the ripest sections of the Clos. Nets are almost all up and green drop continues.
Sparkling section (NORM YOST): (swale in front of Wes and Chanda’s house)
Fruit sample: 90% veraison, some color on crush, seeds 20% (?) browning.
Refract: 17.5 Brix Hydro: 18.2 Brix pH meter: 2.85 pH.
Juice aroma: chalk, kiwi, aspirin, unripe strawberry and cherry
Mouth: Aspirin, enough acidity to strip cheek lining from a Silver Oak drinker, green flavors dominant. Minimal sweetness and flavor development. Germans would say ‘nicht rund’.
Numbers are lower than I had feared. My sense is the ripest sections: Hillside 115 traditionally, are sitting at 20 Brix and 3.0 pH.
Full tests on Pinot Noir next Monday.